Asscher cut diamonds are a distinctive and elegant choice for jewelry, particularly popular in engagement rings and fine jewelry pieces. This unique diamond cut combines deep history with a geometric aesthetic that can capture the heart of those who appreciate a blend of vintage charm and modern sophistication. This essay explores the characteristics, history, and enduring appeal of Asscher cut diamonds, offering insights into why they continue to captivate the imaginations of both jewelers and jewelry enthusiasts alike.
The Characteristics of the Asscher Cut
The Asscher cut is a stepped square cut, often referred to as a “square emerald cut.” Like the emerald cut, the Asscher cut features a pavilion (the lower portion of the stone, below the girdle) cut with rectangular facets to create a unique optical appearance. The key features of the Asscher cut include:
- Shape and Faceting: Asscher cut diamonds are nearly square, but they are actually slightly rectangular, typically with a length to width ratio close to 1:1.05. The cut features a high crown (the top part of the diamond) and a deep pavilion with large, open facets. The most notable aspect of the Asscher cut is its X-shaped pattern seen when looking directly into the stone, created by the intersection of the pavilion facets.
- Cropped Corners: The Asscher cut has cropped corners that give it a somewhat octagonal appearance. This not only adds to the uniqueness of the cut but also makes the diamond more durable, as sharp corners are more prone to chipping.
- Brilliance and Clarity: The large step facets of the Asscher cut enhance the clarity of the diamond, making inclusions more noticeable than in other cuts. As such, high clarity grades are particularly prized in Asscher cut diamonds. The cut is designed to draw the eye into the diamond, emphasizing its depth and luster rather than overt brilliance. As a result, Asscher cuts do not sparkle as much as round brilliants but have a more subtle, mesmerizing gleam that highlights the purity of the diamond.
Historical Context of the Asscher Cut
The Asscher cut was originally developed in 1902 by Joseph Asscher, the founder of the Royal Asscher Diamond Company, which was then known as the I.J. Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam. The development of this cut was significant for its time, introducing new cutting techniques that allowed more light to enter the diamond and be reflected and refracted within it.
- Royal Patronage and Fame: The Asscher Diamond Company gained fame in the early 20th century when Joseph Asscher was commissioned to cut the Cullinan diamond, the largest rough diamond ever found. The company was later granted a royal title by Queen Juliana of the Netherlands in recognition of its contributions to the diamond industry.
- Popularity in the Art Deco Period: The Asscher cut rose to prominence in the 1920s during the Art Deco period, known for its emphasis on symmetry, geometric patterns, and streamlined designs. The clean lines and elegant simplicity of the Asscher cut complemented the Art Deco aesthetic perfectly, making it a popular choice for jewelry of that era.
The Modern Asscher Cut and Its Variations
In 2001, the Asscher family redesigned the original cut to adapt to modern tastes. This new design, often referred to as the “Royal Asscher cut,” features additional facets and a higher crown to enhance the brilliance of the diamond.
- Comparison with the Original: The Royal Asscher cut has 74 facets, compared to the 58 facets of the original Asscher cut. This modification allows for greater light reflection and gives the stone a more vibrant appearance.
- Maintaining the Appeal: Despite these changes, the Royal Asscher cut retains the fundamental characteristics that define the traditional Asscher cut, including the cropped corners and the square shape with deep pavilion facets.
Choosing and Caring for Asscher Cut Diamonds
Choosing an Asscher cut diamond involves careful consideration of several factors:
- Clarity is Crucial: Due to the open nature of the cut, Asscher diamonds need to have higher clarity. It is recommended to opt for diamonds with a clarity grade of VS2 or higher to ensure that any inclusions are not visible to the naked eye.
- Color Preferences: Like clarity, the color of an Asscher cut diamond is more noticeable due to the cut’s large, open facets. Buyers may want to choose a color grade higher than they might with a more brilliant cut to avoid noticeable color tints.
- Setting Styles: Asscher cut diamonds look particularly stunning in vintage-style settings that complement their Art Deco heritage; however, they also suit simple, modern designs that emphasize their geometric shape. Popular settings include solitaire, halo, and three-stone settings.
- Care and Maintenance: Regular cleaning and careful handling are crucial for maintaining the beauty of Asscher cut diamonds. Due to their geometric nature and the importance of clarityand light reflection, keeping the diamond clean from oils, dirt, and debris is essential. It is advisable to clean Asscher cut diamonds regularly with a soft brush, mild soap, and warm water, and to have them inspected by a professional jeweler annually to ensure that the settings are secure.
The Enduring Appeal of Asscher Cut Diamonds
The appeal of Asscher cut diamonds lies in their unique blend of historical richness and contemporary appeal. They offer an alternative to more common cuts like the round brilliant or princess cut, providing a distinctive choice for those seeking a piece of jewelry that stands out. The following aspects contribute to their enduring popularity:
- Symbolism and Sentiment: Asscher cut diamonds are often chosen for their symbolic value. The clarity and depth of the cut reflect qualities such as transparency and insight, making these diamonds particularly meaningful for engagements, anniversaries, and other significant occasions.
- Investment Potential: Due to their rarity and distinctive features, well-cut Asscher diamonds maintain or increase their value over time, making them not only a symbol of aesthetic beauty but also a wise investment.
- Celebrity Influence: The Asscher cut has been popularized by numerous celebrities who have chosen this style for their engagement rings. This visibility has helped maintain the cut’s popularity among the public, securing its status as a timeless and fashionable choice.
- Artistic and Geometric Appeal: The Asscher cut appeals to those with an appreciation for art and design, particularly because of its alignment with the principles of Art Deco design. Its geometric precision and symmetry make it a favorite among those who value architectural and design-driven jewelry.
Conclusion
Asscher cut diamonds encapsulate a rare combination of historical artistry and modern refinement. Their geometric beauty and deep luster offer a sophisticated alternative to other diamond cuts, making them a coveted choice for those looking to make a statement with their jewelry. Whether set in a vintage-inspired or contemporary piece, an Asscher cut diamond is more than just a gem—it’s a piece of wearable art that carries with it a legacy of craftsmanship and style.
For those considering an Asscher cut diamond, it’s important to focus on clarity and color to ensure the stone’s beauty is maximized. Proper care and regular maintenance will keep an Asscher cut diamond sparkling for generations, potentially becoming a cherished family heirloom. In the world of fine jewelry, an Asscher cut diamond is a testament to the enduring appeal of simplicity, elegance, and geometric harmony. It stands as a symbol of a discerning choice that transcends trends, making it a timeless investment in beauty.
